The North Coast with Oysters
September 11, 2012
Back again traveling the coast of the United States... We picked up our journey at Muir Woods National Monument, an ancient redwood grove just north of San Francisco. It was especially nice to leave the 100+ degree temperatures around Oakley, CA and travel just 60 miles west where the temperature in the forest that afternoon hovered around 70 degrees.
There is a mile long, winding boardwalk over the creek and swamp beneath these tall, tall redwoods. There were no birds to be seen, but I suppose they were hanging out up in the canopy - up to 250+ feet above the ground.
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Seventeen year-old Peg in the Pacific (1956) |
After the woods, we went to Muir Beach and looked for reported Great White Sharks lurking offshore. Nope. It was the first time I had put my tootsies in the Pacific ocean since 1956. Still cold!
Before we headed further north I am sorry to report that some behavior issues forced us to have Sully “tutored.” He was not aggressive, but had become somewhat confused about his male functioning. OK, he wanted to hump everything... so at seven years of age he lost his boys. Poor guy. It took a few days for him to recover enough for us to head on up the coast to Point Reyes National Seashore and points north.
It was to be our third visit to Point Reyes, a place I particularly remember because when we stayed at an inn there, almost 15 years ago, our bed had legs made out of bear’s feet attached to small logs and the light fixtures were electrified deer’s legs with lampshades. Worse, the highly touted restaurant within was closed for the season.
Ostensively, we are heading up the California coast to hike in the hills and along the beaches, but there is another side to our journey. It was really the beginning of our quest to eat all the oyster dishes we could discover. Having grown up on the Chesapeake Bay with Chincoteague Oysters, we are sort of oyster snobs. Previously, when in this area, we rejected all forms and manner of prepared Pacific Oysters. This time, as we head north, we are determined to enjoy all the offerings. And so we have had them southern-fried, warmed in garlic butter, cooked in a mango bourbon sauce, raw served with a cilantro, red wine vinegar dipping sauce, Kentucky barbecued, baked with a polenta crust and served with a soft-boiled creole remoulade dipping sauce and finally raw with lemon, cocktail sauce and horseradish1. Yeah, we ate them all, and we are still going strong. Very strong!
Oyster Dishes We Have Known and Loved
Between oyster-eating orgies, we took several hikes on the various beaches. Kehoe Beach, where dogs are allowed and which is conveniently located on the San Andreas Fault was our favorite. Cliffs plunging into the ocean and a white sand beach with rocky outcroppings. A mile trek on a marked path across some very soft sand dunes brought us to the beautiful, white sandy beach. (Trudging, trudging in deeper and deeper sand past cows and California Quail.) The air was windy and cool, but the sun warm. It was one of those magic moments in time: The breakers really were booming and crashing onto the sand, dolphins were arcing gracefully just offshore and gulls dipped and flashed across the waves.
At first Sully just stood at the ocean’s edge and breathed and smiled, and then he raced across the sand and tore into the water barking with joy. As we walked a mile or so north through the surf, Sully began to re-hone his surfing skills. He even hooked up with a buddy.
Wet, sandy, salty dog in the camper... Now there’s some joy.
1 Still the best oysters ever, were shucked in front of our eyes at the old Annapolis Market on Main Street at the wharf. Slurping one was like bringing the whole sea into your being. The ocean roared!
Hey You Two!
Attaching something for the Dynamic Duo Oyster Connoisseurs! We must have been in California about the same time. The oysters came from some place near Mendocino. The oyster fest and wine tasting evening was at Blue Lakes east of Ukiah.
Happy Trails!
Mary
I really like oysters but not raw. Please cook them for me.
Thelma
Wow Peg, you look the same as you did in 1956 when I was only 1 years old. I love your stories and only wish I could be there with you.
hugs to Sully for his quick healing!
xoxo,
Kathy in Texas
In my traveling life I have somehow wandered into Point Reyes twice. The first time was in April, and the entire coast was in bloom. I gathered up flowers like crazy and put them into half a dozen dixie cups in the motel. The second time we arrived as thousands of cows crossed the road, and we waited, waited, waited.... At the point, the fog was heavy, but suddenly it "burned". What a magnificent sight!
I wish I could join you up the coast.
Ilo-Mai
Find a pony and and send it to me!
Calli
